What was it? We’d become utterly disenchanted with all but a handful of Spanish wines sent to us by struggling national importers, most were overpriced and overrated. Billions of Common Market euros poured into new Spanish plantings, fancy bodegas with circular tasting rooms and surround sound. What was there to show for it? The funny money paid for fancy labels and (too much) American wood, but none of the expensive trimmings could replace the real deal. So when we heard about a pre-Franco vineyard, tasted the exquisite 2004 Partal — we just had to go see for ourselves.

Our lunch with Pepa was a lesson in 20th century Spanish history viewed through the eyes of a winegrower. Over roasted baby goat paired with the 2004 Partal, Pepa told us about his grandmother, “La Balcona”, a tenant farmer who, in 1940, right after the end of the Spanish Civil War, was given the opportunity by one of the local terratenientes to buy one of the prime vineyard sites in Murcia for next to nothing. She immediately ripped out the wheat and saffron and planted Monastrell bush plants. But Murcia would pay a hefty price for its opposition to Franco during the civil war. Franco cut off state funds to the region, and the young people fled, moving to Barcelona and Madrid. The fields were lying fallow, and the few grape growers selling to the local co-op found their Monastrell wines selling for 10 cents a liter in the retail stores of Madrid!

It took almost 35 years for Franco to pass and for Murcia to begin its comeback. And it took still another 30 years for the roots of La Balcona’s Monastrell to spider underground, searching out water and nutrients, infusing these incredibly healthy bush plants with the explosive red fruit intensity that is found in this brilliant, utterly singular Spanish red wine.

Production of Partal is tiny. Today, most is sold in Murcia. But we weren’t making an 8 hour trek just for a history lesson and some roasted goat. The 15 remaining cases of the 2004 Partal have been earmarked for WineAccess members, a sensational tribute to La Balcona. Not to be missed for the wine, its history, and that old-vine Mourvedre.

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Wine drinking is one of the favourite pastimes of many Australians. It is indeed a common sight to see an Australian family sitting together in the evening, with the kids playing in front of the fireplace while Mum and Dad enjoy a nice glass of wine. Most often it is red wine with some crackers and cheese. The regular wine drinker would swear by the fact that this, by far, is the most relaxing and enjoyable evening, and the subtle alcohol in the wine helps them relax more. In fact wine drinking, at all times of the day is fast gaining popularity the world over.
Wine is not a drink like beer that you pour into a glass and gulp or drink straight from the can. It is a very dignified drink that calls for manners and dignity while drinking. It also calls for some easy to follow procedures that should be remembered should you or a family member be very fond of drinking wine.
The first amongst these procedures is having the wine at the right temperature. The old adage of having chilled white wines and red wines at room temperature does not work anymore. Room temperatures can mean anything and having white wines chilled is wrong as well. The ideal temperature for having a white wine should be an approximate 11.7 degrees Fahrenheit while for a red wine is around 17 degrees Fahrenheit. It is said that old and matured white wines should be allowed a period of time before they are taken and should be taken out of the chiller at least 15 minutes prior to service. Specialised wine chillers are also available in the market, which cool the wine to precise temperatures.
Another thing to remember is that wine is not beer. It is not meant to be slugged and gulped. It is a dignified drink that is meant to be sipped slowly and enjoyed. You should spend time savouring the aroma that the wine exudes and the colour and texture of the wine itself. Enjoy the wine with every sip and use all your taste buds to taste and enjoy the Australian wine. One glass of Australian wine can last a very long time if it is leisurely sipped and slowly enjoyed.
Last but not the least; wine must be drunk in a special wine glass. It cannot be just poured into any glass or tumbler or be had from a pitcher, the way beer is enjoyed. Wine must be had in a specialised wine glass like the burgundy glass or the Bordeaux glass or such, that allows for the wine to be twirled around and champagne, yet another form of wine must be enjoyed in a champagne tulip, a glass that allows you to savour the colour of the champagne, relish the aroma, keep the bubbles in place and yet allow you to have an enjoyable drink!

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